DO-IT-YOURSELF LED CAR KILL

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Many people are familiar with this feeling when, in the midst of repairs, a portable incandescent lamp falls and fails. The words are different, but for some reason everything from the category is not quite printed. To keep your nerves in order, you are invited to do it yourself with your own hands to construct a lamp that cannot be killed, unsinkable, completely safe and generally almost eternal, which will cost you a penny and will serve for many years. Its production will take several minutes, not counting the search for materials.

Making LED Carrying

To make such a thing you need a plastic bottle with a volume of half a liter, but if you want a large lamp, you can take a liter, or even a half and a very luxurious lamp will turn out from two liter capacity. This is optional. The contents of the bottle must first be drunk, do not get carried away with beer, you don’t need many transfers. Then, if the bottle is from sweet soda or even beer, you need to rinse it with clean water inside, remove the labels and dry so that there is no moisture left in it. The cap from this bottle is also in business.
Further, to connect the lamp power from the battery, you need a cable and always a copper one with a core section of at least 1.5 mm square. If the wire cross section is larger, then this is welcome. You determine the length of the cable yourself, depending on how many meters you plan to move away from the car, but you need to consider that the longer the cable, the greater the voltage drop across the LEDs and, therefore, the weaker the light. Therefore, try not to wave long. More than 3-4 meters will be unnecessary. If you plan to use this carrying case in winter conditions, then choose a cable with rubber insulation. Plastic cable, as you know, can not be bent in winter.
To connect the cable to the battery, you need crocodiles, or a cigarette lighter socket, as you decide, to make it convenient.
For convenience, the fix button does not hurt, but you can completely do without it.
Any magnet that can hold our work in limbo is also very useful. You stick a magnet in any place of the machine that needs additional lighting, and work with amenities. Moving the lamp does not cause any problems.
And finally, the most important component of our lamp is a 12-volt DC LED strip. The length of the tape is determined empirically, it is directly dependent on the "caliber" of the bottle.
Materials are collected, it’s time and for the cause.

In the neck of the bottle, you need to make, drill, burn, small holes so that two wires that are soldered to the tape can hardly climb through them.

If the wires on the tape are short or there are none, then you need to solder 10 centimeters. Push the wires into the bottle so that their ends come out in the neck. We fix these wires so as not to accidentally pull them out while winding the LED strip onto the bottle and proceed to the responsible business.

We remove the protective tape from the adhesive layer and carefully, turn to turn, tightly stick the tape on the surface of the bottle from the neck to the bottom.

We’ll slow down near the bottom and look for the nearest sign on the tape that looks like a pedestrian crossing the street. At the “transition”, the tape can be cut off and this place sealed with a glue gun so that the exposed contacts do not close if they accidentally touch the metal and to stop the access of moisture.

While the glue gun is still hot, immediately take the magnet “I have a magnet from a Soviet-made speaker” and glue it to the bottom of the bottle more reliably so that it does not fall off.
It remains to connect the cable.

If you decide to set the lamp on button, you need to take a drill according to the diameter of the button and drill a hole in the lid so that a hole is drilled nearby for the power cable. Insert the button into the hole, tighten the nut, insert the cable and seal the cable and button in the cap with a glue gun so that it is screwed onto the bottle.

Now we seal the cable connections with the button and the LED strip, not forgetting to put a heat shrink tube for insulation on the solder points. You can seat the tube with a simple lighter.
Before screwing the cork, rotate it counterclockwise at revolutions 5 and wind it in place (so that the cable is not twisted).