MECHANICAL SYSTEM TO PREVENT WATER LEAKAGE

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PAPER AND SPRING SYSTEM FOR PREVENTION OF WATER LEAKAGE

Many people are familiar with the problem of water leaks in apartments, due to a damaged mixer or a burst hose. To prevent such a misfortune, or rather, to prevent it, I propose to make home-made products from common parts and materials.

HOW THIS SYSTEM WORKS

We put on the floor a sensor mechanism connected by a cable to a ball valve.

If water gets on the element (paper tape), the paper breaks. The spring is compressed and pulls the cable that overlaps the crane.

This water shutoff system uses ball valves already installed more evenly.

The system allows you to shut off the water and manually. We turn the handle to the side, and the cable remains motionless. Two cables are visible in the photo: the first goes to the sensor in the toilet, the second to the bathroom. When water gets on the floor in one of the rooms, the sensor is triggered, the spring pulls the cable, which pulls the handle of the ball valve and shuts off the water supply to the apartment.

SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS FOR PREVENTION OF WATER DRAINAGE

The photo shows that some of the elements are made of stainless steel (for more durable work and better sliding). After the mechanism is activated, wipe it from moisture with a napkin, only then refill with fresh tape. Cables should not have more than 2 bends at an angle of 90 degrees and a length of not more than 2 meters. Ball valve and sensor can be located in different rooms.

HOW TO MAKE A SYSTEM FOR PREVENTION OF WATER DRAINAGE

The base is a wooden block (length-360mm, width-50mm, height-25-30mm), one short end has an angle of 93 degrees.

A sensor is a strip of paper cut from a student’s notebook and attached to the bottom of the base with a few buttons.

In the manufacture of part No. 3, an oak bar 150x20x50mm was used. All bends were made around it, and then the block was taken out, and cutouts were made by a grinder for fastening the cable.

Parts 3 and 4 should be made of stainless steel, for better sliding of part 4. Part number 3 is better to try to make from cardboard first. Places of bends are shown by red lines.

In the manufacture of part No. 1, a problem arises - an expanded hole with a diameter of 6 mm.

I solved it as follows - drilled one hole, put a six into the screw from the inside. The screw should completely cover the hole. After that, the second hole is drilled.

Parts 4, 4a, 4b, the spring are twisted together with one screw from the bottom (previously a cable is threaded into the grooves of parts 4a and 4b).

SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT

In the manufacture and adjustment of the system, it is desirable to use a fixture - a piece of pipe more than 20 cm long with a thread with a ball valve screwed onto it. On this device, you can check the operation of the entire mechanism not at home, but in the garage, workshop or show the operation of the system to your friends. The device is also useful when drilling holes for connecting parts No. 2 and 2a. To do this, clamp these parts in a vice with the fixture tube previously inserted between them. The handle of the ball valve must be in the closed position, and the slots for the cable in the handle and children. No. 2 must match. After that, holes are drilled simultaneously in parts No. 2 and No. 2a.

There are two holes in part No. 5: the first is for the finger (when we pull the spring), the second is for the hook. Part number 5, you can adjust the tension of the spring, twisting it around the turns.

The base (wooden bar 360 x 50 x 25) can be made longer, and after adjustment, cut off the excess part of the bar. The length of my base is matched to a specific spring.

In the extended state, the spring force is about 10 kilograms, at the end of the actuation 4.5 kg. The main condition: a constant force of 1 to 1.5 kilograms must act on the paper tape (to change this effort, you need to reduce or increase the angle). For measurement, you can use household spring scales.

I bought a spring in a hardware store (door spring), cut it into three parts.

I took a stainless steel from the old Riga washing machine. I bought a wire rope in a store, removed the excess part of the braid on emery, greased it with household grease. I bought a threaded pipe in the market ...

The short end of the bar should have an angle of 93 degrees, the same angle should be in parts 3 and 4 together with their common contact.

The tests were carried out in a humid room, a year later I tried to wet a paper tape - everything worked - the ball valve was completely shut off automatically.